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“Are you sure the cat was outside?” I asked as we
drove away from our home in Wanganui after locking it up like
Fort Knox, or a Maori pa – depending on which shoe fits.
Sometimes it’s easiest to wear no shoe and be neutral,
rather than settling determinedly on one culture. I live simultaneously
in two worlds: my home in New Zealand and through all the ties
in the States where I lived 88% of my life (that calculation
saves me from revealing my age.) You settle serenely into one
life, only to be zapped back to the other by a phone call or
email.
I feel like the toi toi that I ripped out of my hillside
garden and left lying prone on the ground, having run out of
get-ready-for-the-trip
time. I finally figured out why departures are so stressful.
Everything has to be done at the same time before you leave on
a trip, from the laundry, cleaning, packing and stopping the
mail to painting the bathroom, insulating the ceiling and, yes,
transplanting the toi toi. A departure for even a weekend seems
to call on us to finish up things that have languished on for
months or even years. A three month motorcycle trip elicited
preparations that went off the scale.
There are nine million
people in Los Angeles and 8 million of them must be at the airport.
Even with an American upbringing,
I feel like a fish out of water. I am uprooted once again and
plunked onto the other side of the world with the great lack
of finesse that accompanies air travel. The magnitude, diversity
and opulence of America assaults me like a heavy dose of cheap
cologne. You can’t escape it. The sounds of cell phones
fill the air like buzzing mosquitoes on a hot summer’s
night. Spanish mingles with English and other strange tongues.
My
husband, Paul, and I have joined the ranks of the army that circle
the globe continuously, shuffling from airport lounge
to luggage carousel in search of the Holy Grail in their lives.
Ours sits waiting for us inaVancouver warehouse – a 1450
ElectraGlide Ultra Classic Harley Davidson, our transportation
for the next three months around the States. I had a lot of time
in the air to learn that complete title for the handsome dark
green bike that was crated up from Wanganui a month before and
shipped to Canada. We were advised that Customs would be friendlier
in Canada than the paranoia that still grips America.
We sleep
that night in a bed that is bigger than our tent which is also
patiently waiting for us along with other summer camping
gear. A taxi dumps us in an industrial looking area and we search
out the address on a scrap of paper.
Armed with owner’s
papers, shipping receipts and identification, we locate the warehouse.
“
We’ve come to pick up a motorcycle.”
“
Okay, it’s over there.”
“
I’ve got the paperwork here.”
“
No, that’s okay.”
And they carry the crate outside
with a forklift. Like a huge Christmas present, Paul peeps in
a small hole and then we begin
to open the container in the parking lot. He appears unnaturally
nervous, this bold man of mine and finally admits to hoping he
can remember how it all goes back together. This was the condensed
version to fit into the crate, while other bits accompanied us
in a duffle bag. If he’s nervous, I’m really nervous
especially when the process is completed with a few extra pieces
lying beside the bike. They agree to store the container for
the return shipment and that ends the formalities. We hop on
(for lack of a less agile term), gratefully hear it roar into
life and we are off into the wilds of right-hand drive traffic
guided by a white arrow on the dash pointing right. I chant “stay
right” each time we take a corner or pull into traffic.
We reach the American border, our next challenge, and present
our American passports. I discovered Paul’s New Zealand
passport was expired the day before we left.
“ Where are you going?”
“ Travelling around the States for three months.”
“ Where is this bike registered?”
” New Zealand.”
“ New Zealand! Do you folks live there?”
“ Yes.”
“ Hmmm. Well, have a good time.”
The White Arrow Adventure has begun. |